20 to 7

The first group meal in India last night was a success! The group is offered a selection of curries, breads and rice, it is all delicious. The group here is a lot smaller than Sri Lanka it’s gone from twenty to seven. Probably as this is One Life’s first tour back in India since Covid. But it’s nice; more intimate. I also think it gives the group more flexibility, we get through our plans quicker and therefore have more free time for optional activities and additional stops not originally on the itinerary. After our dinner we go for a drink and chat getting to know each other better – looks like I’ve got lucky again, it’s a good group.

This morning starts, as many do, with breakfast, I stick to the omelette today; only so many days in a row I can have potatoes at breakfast. Then the group is on the bus to our first, of what I’m sure will be many, temples. This trip differs to others as the group won’t have a designated bus and driver for our whole tour, we will be chopping and changing between lots of modes of transport, including the sleeper train tonight.

We arrive at our first temple, Birla/Laxminarayan Temple in New Delhi. Built in 1939, it is a Hindi temple that has close links to Ghandi, who ensured that the temple was open to all castes. The temple’s main deity is Vishnu along with Lakshmi. I’ve learnt that Hindus believe in many gods in many forms and often temples are dedicated to a specific deity or combination of deities. The group is shown round by our guides Anuj and Nikhil. We aren’t allowed to take photos while in the temple grounds but we do our best to get some shots from the outside, there are ‘sweet shops’ along the street outside where people are able to buy offerings to present to their gods while praying. After taking some photos we are back on the bus for the next stop.

Birla/Laxminarayan Temple

Gurudwara Bangla Sahib

This time we are at a Sikh Temple, Gurudwara Bangla Sahib. We are shown around the whole of this beautiful temple in Delhi which is associated with the eighth Sikh Guru, Guru Har Krishan. We start the tour in the main temple just as the main congregation arrives. We are lucky enough to see many people walk in and pray as monks chant. At one point we are asked to get out of the way and take a seat. Tia one of my travel companions and new friend has got a small slit in the bottom of her dress and one of the temple attendees asks that our guide takes her back out to the tourist area and gets her a sarong to cover up. In both temples we have been to today it is important to cover one’s shoulders and legs. In situations like these I am thankful for the zip away trouser shorts I’ve brought, no matter how much of a fashion faux pas they may be! After the main temple we see the holy bathing pool that apparently accompanies all Sikh temples. It is a massive pool with a few people washing themselves in the blessed water. I am pleasantly surprised to see that the pool is also home to many fish. Holly, another new travel companion and friend, gets in a little bit of trouble with Anuj our main guide when Nikhil, the trainee, gives her some questionable guidance about whether photos are allowed in this area. We later see Anuj tell the guard about some locals we also see sneaking in a couple shots. Once we have done a lap of the pool we head to what I find to be the most impressive part of the temple. The volunteer kitchen, a massive operation that feeds anyone who may need a free meal. It is amazing to see the kitchen is open to anyone no matter what their religion, caste or race may be. Feeding over 35,000 people a day this kitchen is funded by donations and run by volunteers open 24/7, 365.

Ugrasen Ki Baoli

After a wonderful lunch our guide Anuj has a surprise. Although not on the Itinerary he instructs the bus to take us to Ugrasen Ki Baoli a local watering hole, and I mean that in the literal sense, not a bar! This old piece of architecture as well as being beautiful, served a very important purpose for years in Delhi. Dug deep into the ground it was a source of water for many of the locals during the drier seasons. Anuj says it is now mainly used as a nice lunch spot for local office workers or a romantic spot for love birds from the local colleges. The group, of course, get some pics, Tia also finds herself being blatantly filmed by a local in front of the whole group. The first of many men who seem to have little shame in coming up to members of our group to get photos and videos. Although mainly an issue for the women, I have myself been asked to pose for a couple of shots with locals as well. I have been lucky though, everyone has asked my permission, the women haven’t been so lucky!

Lotus Temple

After the secret stop we are back on the bus heading for the Lotus Temple. A Bahá’í House of Worship, notable for its lotus-like shape is similar in design to the Sydney Opera House. Situated in the middle of massive lush gardens, the group, having naughtily skipped the queue outside, work our way to the main hall. We are told that this is a temple of silence, a dedicated area that people of all religions can come to worship their chosen god. I have to admit the place gives me culty vibes, there are many attendees directing visitors and we are encouraged to learn more about the religion through pamphlets and the information centre, the contrast between the rich luscious grounds and the surrounding area is also significant. Although believing in a singular god I do appreciate the Bahá’í main objectives, teaching the essential worth of all religions and world peace.

India Gate

After our visit to the silent hall, the group heads to the India Gate and War Memorial, along the way the bus does a couple of laps of a roundabout that is in front of the government building. We have to do the laps as the bus isn’t allowed to stop and park up for security reasons but there’s no rules about accidentally missing your turn on a roundabout a couple of times! From the bus we are able to see not only the current Indian Government buildings but also the new building they are getting ready to open. After our not so accidental missed turns we park up and walk towards the gate. It is an amazing monument dedicated to soldiers who fought and lost there lives in WW1. There are loads of names transcribed on the monument and, Anuj tells us, the names of many British soldiers. Unfortunately this is a very busy area and some of the woman we are with are getting some unwanted attention from some of the men around. One such man came up to our group shoving cameras in their faces telling them how beautiful they are, apparently he is a vlogger, he eventually goes away and the group heads to the National War Memorial. This is a beautiful garden with more names transcribed of fallen soldiers from other wars. There is one monument that has a guard at watch standing perfectly still, similar to the royal guards in England.

National War Memorial

Once the group was all warred out, we go for a walk around the market district. Looking at many local stores, we have a group trip to Uniqlo. I almost buy a T-shirt but decide against it after remembering what happened to my last printed tee in the Sri Lankan laundry (I am now one t-shirt down). Later we find ourselves in another amazing restaurant enjoying a beautiful meal. I have a Mutton Curry which comes with two lovely shanks and a beautiful sauce. After the group Dlistens to my suggestion we go to a bar called Dr. Zombie to pass the time until our train, although we all decide to avoid the zombie tiki cocktails that have a warning with them “only two per customer”. Rachel suggests we play a few games as we sit, and so follows games like: If you were a zombie cocktail which one would you be?; What are your five favourite fruits?; Fingers for toes or toes for fingers?

Mutton Curry

After a few drinks and a fairly heated debate on the best fruits out there. We head to the station for our train. We are taking a sleeper train to Biknar the desert city, our next stop on the itinerary. The train is due to leave at 23:25 subject to IST (Indian standard time – a similar thing to Sri Lanka time). I don’t actually know what time the train pulled out because after a busy first day as soon as I lay down in my designated bed and my head hit the pillow, I am out. Ending a great day with a first; I have never been on a sleeper train before.

The group is asked if we would like to dine here but as many of us have sensitive western stomachs and don’t want to take meals from people who may need it more, we opt to head out for lunch. We are taken to a lovely place called the Connaught Clubhouse. A microbrewery which seems like a hidden gem in the bustling streets of Delhi. Rachel and Will, an Australian couple who are also on the tour and becoming fast friends, decide to split a couple of sharing platters with Stu and me. We opt for the Meze and Tandorri Chicken platters, the waitress, who is clearly great at her job, convinced us to also add on some rice and naan. It is amazing, the food in India continues to not disappoint.

Delhi dining with (I-r) Will, Stu, me, Holly, Anuj (our main tour guide), Nikhil, Esra, Tia and Rachel