Forts, Food and Alfredo

The day started with a long walk around the beautiful blue city. In Jodhpur traditionally the rich would paint their property indigo as a sign of wealth. Today there is still a divide in the city but it is no longer based upon the division of wealth. Anyone can paint their property blue and many people do. However, it is the streets of the old city, properties built by traditional methods, that are painted in vibrant blues. As one approaches the new city, tradition fades to innovation and new building practices and decorations find their place. Our tour took us around the city but had its main focus on the blue in the depths of the old city. One thing I can’t help notice, especially in this city, but wherever I’ve been so far, is street art is everywhere. Whether murals or statues dedicated to different gods or celebrating local culture or wildlife, street art is rampant. I don’t mean the sort of annoying tagging you find in many European cities, I mean real art out in the open for all to see. I think it is beautiful bringing art, culture and colour into everyday life.

Jodhpur wall art

After our tour of the old city we start the ascent to Mehrangarh Fort, which is located on a hilltop around 122 metres above the surrounding plain. It was constructed c. 1459 by Rajput ruler, Rao Jodha although most of the existing structure is from the 17th century. We are shown round by Anuj after discovering the audio guides aren’t available. It is an amazing place, full of history, I am deeply impressed by Anuj who, on many occasions, has shown his extensive knowledge of India’s history and culture. It is a very hot day and the fort is massive, covering an area of 1,200 acres. To be honest I am rather glad we are getting the condensed version from Anuj – if I had had an audio tour I would still be in the fort. The group take lots of photos of the fort’s amazing and intricate architecture mixed with the spectacular views.

The Rainbow Tower

At the end of the tour we walk into a restaurant in the fort but decide to eat elsewhere when we realise that two other large groups have just ordered and the wait times will be long. Luckily, as well as an extensive knowledge of history, Anuj seems to know the best restaurants in town, where ever we go, and lunch does not disappoint.

Indique Folk Band
(click on the top right hand icon)

Interior courtyard at Mehrangarh Fort

View of Mehrangarh Fort overlooking the 'Blue City'

Mural of Mehrangarh Fort

The group then head back to our hotel for a rest. After a quick shower I join Will and Rachel on the roof once again enjoying the views. We have a nice chat and Will tells me about the AFL (Australian Football League). More specifically he shows me a quick YouTube video – kind of like a beginner’s guide for dummies. Rachel and Will kindly offer to take me to a game if my travels in Oz ever take me Melbourne way. Nikhil joins us on the roof and the four of us relax and chat while others nap and chill in their rooms. It is a hot day and I am probably not drinking enough water.

This really becomes apparent later in the day after the group is back together for a food tour, but without Stu who's feeling a little the worse for wear after our drinks last night. As the group sets off I am feeling excited about trying some fresh street food and indulging in even more delicacies, but as we wend our way through what seem to be ever increasingly busy streets, I start to not feel good. After being in Sri Lanka and then India and eating a lot of rice, I have been feeling a little bloated here and there, but this feels different. I am light headed and a little out of it. By the time the group has got to the busy intersection where we start our food tour, I am not feeling great at all. I have a nibble on a samosa, the first treat we try, and it makes me feel worse. I ask for some water and drink about a litre in 30 seconds. It helps, turns out chilling on a roof for a couple of hours and forgetting your water is not a good idea. I carry on, not wanting to miss out on tasty treats, but I limit myself to just tasting the lovely street food we are being treated to, rather than indulging like I would normally.

The group makes its way to a square with a clock tower, affectionately called the rainbow tower by the locals, due to it often having different coloured lights shone upon it. Here we try lassi from a famous local vendor. I give this a miss this time, but have been having lassi fairly regularly in India and have to say it is a delicious yoghurt-like drink, often sweetened with sugar – great right after munching on a spicy curry. I am not the only one in the group not going full force on the street food though. Esra has a sensitive stomach so is being safe, Rachel is gluten free and has to avoid most of these doughy deep fried delicacies, and Holly is adverse to spice like no-one I have met before. As such the group decide we should top the night off once again in a roof-top bar where the others can order some food.

Anuj again doesn’t disappoint. After following him through an array of winding streets, we end up at a cute little hotel/restaurant called Indique that has an in-house Indian folk band playing. I order another bottle of water and – as I believe is usually advised for those who are only just starting to feel re-hydrated – a cocktail. The others order some food which all looks delicious. Unfortunately for Holly, when she orders the pasta Alfredo, the kitchen, in a reaction to the request for no spice, absolutely cover the dish in pepper, which I personally love but Holly finds even this too much. Alfredo aside, it is a lovely way to end the evening, Rach and I are even convinced to get up for a dance before we head back to the hotel. As we wander back in the dark to our hotel, ready for a good nights sleep, the knowledge of the need for an early start tomorrow sits uneasy on me, but I still go to bed a happy man after another great day!