From Koyasan to Kyoto

Woke up fairly early today to join a morning prayer ceremony with some of the monks. It was an interesting experience, kind of voyeuristic in nature. I, and many of the group along with other tourists staying at the temple, file in and quietly sit on some small benches pushed against a back wall of a room heavily embellished with gold and religious emblems with a central shrine-like area. Once we were all settled two of the monks came in and sat either side of the central shrine and started reciting prayers accompanied with the occasion strike of a gong. Everyone I spoke to thought it went on a little long, longer than we expected with multiple repeating parts that would trick you into thinking it was over, just for a new part to begin again. Although, thinking about it, I shouldn’t be surprised that monks know how to commit to something really should I! After it was time once again for a temple meal, that’s right people more of vegan, still no detail or description just vegan! All I know is that I still don’t like tofu and I never want to be a monk. Although as a treat to ourselves Rachel and I went to the cafe next to our temple which luckily was open and got banana pancakes and a tea/coffee. They were delicious, especially after doing my best to get through monk breakfast and getting only three bites in before I had to call it quits.

So after a not so delicious, then delicious brekkie, it was time to get a move on; we had trains to catch. We stop in Osaka for lunch, I am slightly ashamed to admit that rather a few of us end up going for a McDonalds, after the temple food I think we deserve a treat, so I order myself a Big Mac meal and chickie nuggs on the side. For some reason they tell Lucinda they don’t have any BBQ sauce but I get a pack so we share that while we munch our food down. Then it is back on the trains for our final destination. Kyoto. It will be the last stop on this trip, but one I have been looking forward to since I booked it. The walk from the station takes us through some of Kyoto’s streets that have this great indoor out door feel, the oblong main streets still have intersections with roads that have covers over, so people can shop in any weather – and they are bustling. It is such a stark contrast to the high streets in England these days. There are hundreds of shops, cafes, restaurants and amenities all around, all busy; it is great to see. And I know I’ve been saying this in almost every Japanese city I have been in so far but every single local I see has so much more style than me, it is crazy!

Next we get some time to chill and settle into our hostel, I am sharing with Stephen tonight, my new mate from Ireland. It is a nice hostel with a bar downstairs and a nice rooftop seating area. Stephen and I, joined by Luke, Amanda and Lucinda, decide to go find ourselves a drink before our Geisha tour later. Luke leads the way having done a little googling and after a while finally gets us to a bar. It is mainly a whiskey bar but it is lovely; tiny with just enough room for the five of us and what feels like a personal bartender. We enjoy our drinks and play a game of guess the most expensive bottle of whiskey on the shelf, I can’t remember who exactly won I just know for sure I lost! We are having such a good time we have to message the group to let them know we may be a few minutes late to the meet up. Finally we make it back to a ready-to-leave group who seem a little disappointed in us for being late, not surprising really, up until now no one has really been late to any of our meet ups!

Second, banana pancake breakfast

The reason for our meet up is the next activity; a Geisha tour or more specifically a Giko and Miko tour. I will admit that in my ignorance until a few days ago I believed that Geishas were historically prostitutes, I have now been informed they are actually woman who are experts in performing arts. Kyoto currently has the largest population of Geisha in Japan with roughly 400 active Giko within the city. These performances are rarely for the public however, but in a social scene I will never be a part of: the rich and powerful of Japan’s business and political worlds often host meals at secretive clubs that are invite only, where a meal is eaten and a performance given. Whether singing, dancing or something else, I imagine handshake deals are made that involve more money than I can even imagine! During our tour we pass many of these clubs being taught the symbols that are left as signs to the members of these elusive groups. We are lucky enough to see two Miko walking from a specialist Geisha school in their full garms, probably on their way to a party. Miko are the trainees, the apprentice women who have been accepted into the specialist schools to undergo years of training before graduating into the fully trained Giko. It is not an easy life from the sounds of it especially during training. However, being a Giko can bring great respect and lots of money if your career goes well. It was a great tour with loads of cool information that I have barely scratched the surface of, so if you find yourself in Kyoto do yourself a favour and book onto a Geisha tour! After the tour I headed back to the hostel with Rachel for an Uber eats and a much needed early night!

Morning Temple breakfast

Streets of Kyoto

Kyoto riverside at night

Whisky Galore

Yasaka Shrine, Kyoto

Yasaka Shrine Gardens, Kyoto

One of our last group photos

Kyoto Miko
(click on the top right hand icon)