Fushimi Inari, Samurai and so goodbye Japan

Today is my final day, the one I have been looking forward to since I double checked my flight wasn’t gonna make me miss any of the activities. But have also been dreading it since I have made such good friends here. So waking up with excitement I do something I have not been doing a lot of recently, I join the group for breakfast, some lovely paninis. Once filled up on toasted goodness we head out to the Fushimi Inari Shrine, known by others as the ultimate Torii Gate experience. A hiking trail straight up the wooded mount Inari with thousands of Torii gates guiding you up the mountain towards multiple shrines. The hike is not easy but after quite a few days of drinking I am thankful to have the chance to get my sweat on. Separating from the group I zoom up through the crowds using my years of honed London Underground crowd weaving skills. Not only am I thankful for the sweat but the views are amazing! Sitting at the second highest viewpoint on the mountain with a cold coke, looking out over the woods down onto Kyoto with the sun on my face was one of those moments that makes you think, you know what, this life ain’t that bad! I am slowly joined by Rachel and the rest of the group. Sarah (Dauphinoise) decides to one up us all and goes all the way to the top. Rachel, has said this spot has the best views, so the rest of us don’t bother. It is only on the walk down do I really take time to appreciate the magnificence of the Torii gates, these bright red wooden arches are sponsored by business to bring them good luck and success and they aren’t cheap roughly $5000 US a year for the cheapest. My favourite part is when you see gates that have been axed down after a company has either decided to stop or failed to make a payment. It is also fun to see the difference between the newly built/painted and those that have faded with time. There are also many different statues and shrines along the way. I really did rush up and miss everything to be fair to myself though I did need to sweat out the hangover. I would once again recommend this to anyone who finds themselves in Kyoto the Fushimi Inari part, not the hangover!

After a break at the hostel it is time for the moment we have all been waiting for, Samurai School!!! A quick journey later we arrive in an old school home with a weird layout and once we are donned with traditional samurai attire, we take our seats to learn not only the history of samurai in Japan but the history of the very house we are sitting in. A rarity these days, this traditional samurai house holds many secrets, from a narrow front door to make intruders enter single file, low beams to stop overhead sword swings and even a secret passage. The owner, a Samurai and political official, was around when the rule of the samurai came to an end adding to the rarity of this house. The only reason it still exists is because of his royal wife, weirdly, he was married into the royal family, a real Romeo Juliet love story. The reason we know this is due to the royal family seal that can be seen in those low level beams I mentioned earlier, so we can surmise that this samurai’s wife was able to pull some strings to allow him to, not only live, but keep his central Kyoto home and position. Following this lesson about the home and samurai culture in general, it is time for some demonstrations. The first inside the home accompanied with traditional gong music that has an incredibly calming effect is juxtaposed to the speed and lethal efficiency of the swift and smooth swings and slices of the samurai’s sword. In a matter of seconds the two rolled up tatami mats representing two invading intruders are sliced in half. An impressive display at all times but the fact that moments before we had been told to not cross the doorway with our phones as the average samurai with a good swing can easily take off an arm at the shoulder. Almost as if to prove this point the next demonstration is another samurai making light work of slicing five thick tatami mats carefully wrapped and bound together – it is an impressive display.

Fushimi Inari

The Torii Gate experience

Inari Ōkami Shrine

Fushimi Inari viewpoint

Samurai school

Beating the Samurai Drum

Samurai demonstration
(click on the top right hand icon)

Samurai master
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After these displays by experts, first with wooden sticks, the group is split into two and we take turns practising the technique in the small courtyard. Step, raise sword, step and swiftly bring hilt of sword to the side of your hip creating a downward swipe with only a slight angle. Once the teachers are satisfied that most of the group has understood the basics of the swipe as well as teaching us the proper way in which to hand over and receive the swords it is time for the real deal. Many of these samurai swords are at least 100 years old we are informed, so no pressure in looking after them. This time we can only go up two at a time as, with real swords, they wisely give us a lot more space. I some how end up being one of the last, I have to be honest although an exciting experience I also find it terrifying. It was reminiscent of the time I went to a shooting range while in America, just holding something in your hands that’s soul reason for existing is to kill just makes me uncomfortable I guess, not necessarily a bad thing! Anyway full of nerves I step up and have my go, I am not the best, I keep swinging a bit too much like a baseball bat, a far too wide angle. The sword works best with a swift almost straight down motion, I am also not the best at aiming where they tell me to aim on the mat. However, after a few different attempts I do manage to cut through the mat once or twice and walk away with my head held somewhat high. With emotions running high from our chance to experience just a little of the samurai life we are all led back inside for a guided meditation to help us relax followed by a chance to take photos and give our thanks to our hosts for what was truly a informative and amazing experience.

Samurai student
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The magnificent seven!

Having had one of the best days yet in Japan comes the bit I have been dreading, it is time to head back to the hostel to say my goodbyes. Due to my need to get to Bangkok asap for the start of my next tour, I am forced to leave before the final dinner, so once back at the hostel everyone gathers in the lobby so I am able to say my goodbyes. A little teary eyed I start to head off, Rachel kindly walks me to the metro, the poor woman once again having to repeat to me the journey I need to take back to get myself to Osaka for my flight to Bangkok. I also ask her to accompany me as I have a surprise for her and the others. I have drawn out some money to give to her so she can buy herself and everyone a round of drinks on me at the final dinner; I know what a great guy I am! However, once on the train about half an hour in, I realise in my attempts to try and remember my route to Osaka and get tickets and basically having to think for myself again for the first time in two weeks I completely forget to give her the money, IDIOT! Oh well, I think to myself, guess I will just have to treat myself to a nice dinner once at the airport while I wait for my flight. One metro and bullet train later I am at the airport, in an hour-long queue to check my bags. Once checked I head through security with the excitement and appetite to appreciate a final, lovely Japanese meal. Of course, as it is now passed 10pm, the only place open is 7/11 so my final feast that I had been imagining turns out to be a microwave meal and a can of beer, not the ending to this trip I was hoping for!

Nonetheless I would like to thank everyone I met in Japan for such an amazing time, it was truly an amazing experience – especially Rachel our tour guide. I have made life long friends and memories with you all and hope to see you all again someday soon!

Now South East Asia here I come!

Rachel – a wonderful tour guide, and now a wonderful friend