Mud, Glorious Mud

Today is the start of the mid-autumn holiday and it is busy! Having woken up a little hung-over from mine and Tom’s escapades at Mojo’s last night, we are regretting our decisions to stay for one more multiple times when we remember it is bike riding time. Last night at the bar Tom confided in me that he wasn’t sure he knew how to ride a bike but was determined to give it a go. This morning his opinion has changed. As we meet up with Ping in the lobby Tom says he can’t ride a bike to Ping’s surprise and somewhat worry, as she now has to figure out how this is going to work. Luckily there is a moped rental shop right next door and Tom is designated ‘passenger princess’ on the back of Ping’s moped as she drives slowly to lead the way for Erika and I to follow on our bikes. As much as I am not feeling 100% this morning, I am thankful for the opportunity to do some exercise – Indian food has taken its toll on my waist line!

As we set off I fiddle with the gears, trying to keep up as we make our way out of Yangshuo and into the surrounding farms lands. There is some beautiful scenery: all around there are stunning mountains, hills, fields and trees as well as the occasional temple, statue and artwork. Like I have mentioned before I find foreign countries much more eager to decorate their public areas than the UK; local people are always happy to add beauty in the form of street art, statues, religious iconography and, in China, a paper lantern or two. My favourite is when Erika and I are on a path in between a lake and a farm when we come upon a random field which has a dragon and a man riding a water buffalo made out of, what I assume is, some sort of wicker. It is misty here this morning so although the views may not be as awe inspiring as they could be, I enjoy the mystic and mystery the mist brings; like setting the scene in the credits of a movie.

What a view!

The action we are heading for today isn’t all that action-filled. It is a gentle drift down the Yulong river on traditional bamboo gondolas. These boats that are made essentially by strapping down two seats onto a row of large bamboo shoots that have been fastened together by wire and are powered solely by elbow grease. A man stands behind the seats with a long pole in which to push the boat along, assisted by the currents. I get a boat to myself as Ping doesn’t partake in this activity and Erika and the other Tom end up sharing the first boat. During the ride there are several points where the boat goes over a rock and I have to lift my feet as the bamboo becomes covered in water and I still have my trainers on. My gondolier takes my phone to take some photos of me at a few points – probably because, I later find out, Ping said we are going to tip only if they do a good job. Only problem is he picks some spots in which the background is rather shite for a photo, considering we are working our way through some of the most scenic areas I have ever been.

He is also a rather grumpy man who’s first words to me are “Money, money, money” as we approach the drop off point. I still, nonetheless, tip, as Ping told us most of the entry fee is taken by the company and not paid to the workers – typical. I tip 20 yuan – what Ping suggested per boat and, as I am on my own, double what a single person would normally tip, although I rather regret it now. It is not a lot of money, the equivalent of £2, but it’s what I have been advised but the man looks so grumpy and unimpressed that even the other Tom, who was waiting for me, says “God, he looked grumpy.” Although this doesn’t ruin the experience for me – 99% of the trip he was behind me, so I didn’t see his grumpy face. We stay and watch a few other boats come to shore and not a single other person tips. From my understanding tipping is actually seen as an insult in Chinese culture; a suggestion that someone is need of charity. So it isn’t surprising to see everyone else, all Chinese people enjoying the start of their national holiday, not tip.

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After the boat ride we are back on the bikes and moped to head towards Moon Hill. Moon Hill is a local hike up a hill which has a crescent arch. It is a rather steep hike up to what is now called the Nixon trail. In 1972, the former US president, Richard Nixon and his wife climbed the hill when visiting China, which marked the culmination of harmonious relations between the USA and China, after years of diplomatic isolation.

After a long bike ride and with a hangover I find it rather difficult although, fair to say, by this point I have sweated out any alcohol plus any other toxins I may have had in my body. All of us, including Ping, are exhausted at the top of this not-so-long hike and have to take a breather. I notice and mention the absence of people here compared with the bamboo rafts, to which Ping replies simply “Well yeah, people are lazy.” It is a shame, as the views are beautiful. At one point we even see a hot air ballon start to take off. After catching our breath and of course taking plenty of pictures, we start to head black down to the bikes, the next stop should be more relaxing!

Crescent Arch

With a quick cycle we arrive at Moon Water Rock, an underground river crystal cave home to beautiful displays of stalactite and stalagmites. The not-so-natural paved path through this cave takes us past many different coves and in many directions through a myriad of rock formations, lit up by the bright lights – many with great names such as Primeval Forest and Pig Drunk. After walking through the sometimes water-drenched paths past an internal stream, you can rent a boat to get to the main attraction: a mud bath. A natural muddy spring where those who dare climb and then relax into mud. There was even a slide to make sure you really got yourself covered! It was an interesting experience. Once you get over the initial disgust of smudging through thick mud, it was rather special.

After a quick rinse off we head a little further into the cave for more traditional relaxation – a hot spring. A group of natural pools of spring water of varying temperatures. It take us a while to realise the first pool we get into isn’t the hottest, as we work our way up the rocks. Following the source of the water we eventually find ourselves in the top pool which is the same temperature as a hot bath. It comes as a massive joy to me as I haven’t had a bath since the start of my trip so I really enjoy being able to lean back and sink into the hot water, another thing that has been scarce on this trip so far. Although I enjoy the hot springs immensely I find myself wanting to end our session in the springs in one of the cold ones. After heating up in the various springs there is something revitalising and invigorating about immersing yourself into an ice cold spring. Feeling both relaxed and awake, we quickly rinse off again before getting back into our clothes and exiting the caves.

Once out we are back on the bikes and head back to the hostel. Luckily the owner has offered to help me with my growing need to do laundry – for a fraction of the cost of the local laundrette (I ran out of clean clothes today). So I hand over an embarrassingly large pile of dirty laundry before heading to the room for a proper shower; I still feel there’s mud in my ears. Later we head out for dinner before a quick stop to the local supermarket for water and a few other bits before an early night. After a late one last night and all the exercise today, I am looking forward to a good nights sleep. It seems like Tom and I chose the wrong night to go out, as tonight is the first night of mid-autumn, so the fireworks keep us up much later than we would have liked. But soon enough I am dead to the world and dreaming about what is to come next.