Shipwreck

My fifth day in the Maldives starts a little differently.

We are awoken by the sound of the engine stirring and the waves starting to crash against our boat as we take off to our next snorkelling spot: a ship wreck. As we approach we can see the top of the mast standing firm above the water, waves lashing against it. We will be swimming on empty stomachs today. But this isn’t some cruel move by Teddie and the crew – we just want to be first. This shipwreck is a hot spot for snorkelers and divers and Teddie wants us to experience it all to ourselves; he’s great like that!

As we approach Teddie tells us the history of the ship: it was originally charted by a Sri Lankan crew who found themselves having troubles while sailing through one of the channels between two Islands. Seeing this struggle, a group of Maldivian fisherman sail out and rescue the crew and drag the boat into shallow water. The Sri Lankan crew thankful gift the boat to the Maldivians, a nice thank you even if it’s not in great shape. However, the Maldivian government don’t allow the fisherman to register the boat and so they leave it in the shallows to sink. Not great for the fisherman, but good for the local eco-system. Coral from local reefs has floated to the ship and taken root, making this wreck a home for much sea life.

It’s a great snorkel although the group is a little annoyed with Jason who proclaimed on our approach to the wreck that he had left his Go-Pro on the table of our main boat. Luckily Teddie has his and gets some footage and pictures for us. There is even a bicycle still tied onto the wreck. We later come to find out that the bike was actually placed there by Teddie and his friends after getting permission from the local island government to replace the original bicycle that had once been there. After we’ve had our fill of the wreck, we drift down current to a nearby reef where Teddie points out all the colourful clams and starfish. It is another great start to a day.

After returning for another amazing breakfast we go on the hunt for Manta rays, we’ve already seen a few other species of rays but Teddie is hoping we will be able to see some of these gentle giants swimming on by this morning. Unfortunately the Mantas don’t seem to want to meet and greet today, so we head off to a reef the other side of the resort where we saw the nurse sharks sleeping the other day. The water is quite murky due to the current but that doesn’t stop us from spotting a few different fish as well as some Grey Reef sharks before heading back to the sleeping Nurse sharks, who unbeknownst to me and the others we will be seeing later, or at least some of their mates.

Once we have all met up and got back to the main boat we are served lunch while heading out to our next snorkelling spot. We are in the middle of bloody nowhere: not a reef in sight. But this specific spot is home to a big group of Nurse sharks. Normally nocturnal creatures, the sharks around here have learnt that being awake during the day in this snorkelling/diving spot means chum in the waters. The group and I are lounging around on the front of the boat when a crew member shouts shark – we all rush over as a couple of sharks swim by. They seem to be attracted to the noise of the engine. As we slowly get ready for a snorkel we watch as the sharks seem to multiply from 2 to 3 to 10 to 15! We are now surrounded by sharks and all of us, apart from Jason who scubas in his home country of Australia, are starting to really feel the nerves – we’re clenching in places that you don’t normally clench!

Coral has taken root on the shipwreck
(click on the top right hand icon)

Teddie jumps in with his spear gun he’s hopping to catch a fish we can chum the waters with. Unfortunately the only fish around are too small, Teddie doesn’t like to hunt small, young fish only the big ones. Although no fish are caught, I wouldn’t say this was a totally unsuccessful venture for Teddie. Watching Teddie swimming in and among the group of sharks that never seems to stop growing and the general disinterest in him, helps calm everyone’s nerves a little. So one by one we do it. We voluntarily get into shark infested waters. It is amazing and funny that many of us are taking Teddies safety briefing to keep our arms tucked in and avoid splashing too much lest we get confused for some chum, a little too much to heart – almost curling ourselves into balls to avoid enticing a nip. It is an amazing experience one I am sure we will all remember for the rest of our lives. After all, not many people can say they have bumped fins with a Nurse shark family can they.

Just the three sharks... so far!

Sharks galore!
(click on the top right hand icon)

Once back on the boat we head to our second island, Fulidhoo. Teddie gives us a quick tour, where the others get another ice cream and I try a nice cold alcohol-free cider, before giving us an hour to wander around on our own. We do a quick lap of the island (it is only around 1km wide) before Mel, Linis and me separate from the others and have a little gander in the souvenir shops. Linis gets himself a lovely wooden salad fork set with the word Maldives carved along with a nice picture.

After the island we head back to the boat for another gorgeous dinner and then watch the sunset on another unforgettable day with tea, coffee and a good old fashioned natter.