The Walled City of Xi'an

We had a bit of miscommunication this morning. Although Simon had told us last night the plan was to meet our new guide, Sophia, at 3pm in the hostel lounge/bar area she had messaged saying see you at noon. As such Tom and I found ourselves in the bar at 11:45 wondering if this was right. Don’t worry I only ordered a honey citron tea, mid-day is a little early even for me. By the time I had finished my tea and Tom his coffee we were pretty sure we were meeting at 3pm. We had messaged Sophia on Zangi (an app we have had to download as all our ‘western’ messaging apps are blocked in China) but turns out Sophia, like all the guides we have had so far, don’t really use Zangi and therefore never check it or reply. So after what was a rather nice tea I headed back to my room to relax until 3pm.

Once we had met Sophia and had done all our proper introductions we headed out. We headed for the wall that surrounded the ancient city. The city itself has since expanded way beyond the impressively large wall with many tall buildings spurting out around the ancient centre. Inside the centre itself, in order to maintain the historical and cultural feel, no building is allowed to be higher than the either the wall or the watch towers on it, Sophia wasn’t too clear on which of the two it was, having said both at different times. Anyway today Erika and I were riding bikes around the wall to get a great view of the inner historic city as well as the new metropolis that has grown around it. Before we set off Sophia, as well as telling us some history of the area, wanted to highlight that when on the wall it is always nice to take the time to notice the contrast between the old and the new. Many new buildings being bland grey tall block styled flats and offices where the ancient city is a sea of red and gold with architecture rich with ornate decorative figures and embellishment. It is rare in my experience to see such a strong dividing line between the old and new.

The Walled City of Xi'an

Sophia kindly met us at the South Gate with a warm tea she had bought each of us. This wasn’t the first gift she had given us, already having paid for our metro tickets and buying us one use raincoats when she realised we would be cycling/walking in the rain. After getting off the bikes we started to make our way through the streets to the Muslim Quarter. Many generations ago back in the Ming dynasty there was a wave of wealthy Muslim merchants who congregated in XI’an due to it’s location on the ancient Silk Road. The location of the now Muslim quarter is in a central location near the Drum and Bell Tower and the ancient town hall and is a natural area to attract wealthy Muslims. Today the area is a well known tourist attraction due to the the number of restaurants, bars and shops that are in the area that can still be seen to have Muslim as well as Chinese influences. One of these restaurants was our destination and it did not disappoint. We had a great meal, in what is becoming clear to be the Chinese way, we ate family style; a lot of different plates ordered and shared between us all. We ordered sweet and sour beef, mutton biang biang noodles, aubergine, fried potato and Chinese Pizza (a naan bread pancakey type dish with beef and sticky rice). After this meal and after the drinks we had had the night before the group was ready for an early night. So we headed back to the hostel and had a quick game of cards in the lounge before retiring.

The contrast of old and new – in and outside the wall

A great meal

Bell on the Xi'an City Wall – South Entrance

Spoilt for choice

Erika and I about to set off

Erika and I rode from the East Gate all the way round to the South, Sophia did offer to tandem with Tom but he wasn’t confident he would even be able to balance on a tandem bike so decided to walk to the South Gate in the opposite direction. We would have cycled the whole wall but due to a crack in the South Gate everyone is required to get off their bikes there and, as the weather had taken a turn for the worst, Sophia suggested we called it there.